Each passenger door window can be operated, either from a power window switch built into the driver door switch assembly DDSA , or, from a power window switch mounted locally to the associated door. The driver door window can be operated only from the driver door power window switch built into the DDSA. The DDM examines the request and checks to see if it has received any class 2 serial data messages from any of the other vehicle modules prohibiting the movement.
If no prohibitive messages have been received, the DDM applies battery voltage and ground to the driver door window motor to move the window as requested. When a passenger door module, PDM, LRDM, or RRDM, receives a window switch request from, either the DDSA, or the window switch mounted locally to its door, the passenger door module examines the request and checks to see if it has received any messages from any of the other vehicle modules prohibiting the movement.
If no prohibitive messages have been received, the passenger door module applies battery voltage and ground to the associated window motor to move the window as requested.
There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. Thanks Warren. You obviously know a lot about the window circuits on the Deville.
Your explanation of the control logic is very helpful. I'm curious why this happened in the first place? Any ideas? By the way, I think you can write a book on the workings of the electrics on a Cadillac! Thanks again. Thanks for the compliment Dave, but I can't take credit.
That text was lifted directly from your Service Manual. My driver side window switch was replaced new last year when the window went down and I couldn't get it up. Now it goes down and stays down every once in awhile. In order for it to go back up, I have to lower the passenger window and raise it before the drivers side window goes back up. Sometimes the drivers side will go up as usual but the other times, I have to roll the passenger one up and down as many as 4 times before the drivers side window goes all the way up.
I then bought a used one from a salvage yard and put it in and it worked fine for a couple of weeks and then when I put it down it would not come up no matter what I did. I then took the switch that I had removed and put it back in and then rolled the passenger window down and back up and then the drivers side window went all the way up. All of this was done from the drivers side switch and not the passenger side switch. I won't buy another switch as the problem is elsewhere and I am assuming a common ground wire for the two front windows but I don't know.
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Has anyone done this kind of work on a 56?
If so, could you offer some suggestions? Any help appreciated. Thank you, Samuel. Samuel, If you have the Service Manual on Section you will find an electrical diagram for the windows and the 2-way seat. If the individual switches still control the window functions this indicates you have power from the main circuit breaker.
If your rear right is not working you may have a brake on the main 12V source red wire. The right window hardness runs from the left side channel across to the right side parallel the front edge of the front seat. The 12V is spliced on the right channel for the front and rear switches. You will need to remove the carpet sill panels and the covers plates to gain access to the wiring.
You may need to removed the master control switch and disconnect it from the connector, the switch just clips on the door panel via a metal frame. There should enough slack on the wire hardness to pull the connector about an inch or two from the door panel. It sends that signal to the power window motor. A lot of them are riveted in, so be prepared to deal with that. The motor going bad is almost always a slow process.
The window guide is what guides a window through the door as it goes back up. If it goes bad, then the window can stick. If there is anything that you would like to add, please leave a comment below.
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